samedi 18 décembre 2010

Bar à la badiane et au lait de coco, fondue d'endives

Il est assez classique d'associer le bar avec les saveurs anisées. En l'occurrence, la badiane (ou anis étoilé) apporte cette nuance avec subtilité. L'association avec l'endive, le citron (amers) et la douceur du lait de coco affine encore cette sauce qui n'a d'autre objet que d'exhausser les saveurs du bar, l'un des poissons les plus fins de nos côtes, à condition de n'être pas massacré par une cuisson trop longue ou une sauce grossière.

Pour 4 personnes, prenez un bar de ligne, ou au moins un bar sauvage, d'un peu plus d'1 kg. Levez ou faites lever les filets et coupez-les en deux. S'il reste des arêtes dans les filets, enlevez-les à l'aide d'une pince à épiler. Incisez la peau deux fois dans chaque filet avec un couteau très affûté, sans entamer la chair. Réservez au frais.
Préparez une mirepoix avec une carotte et deux échalotes. Ciseler finement 10 g de gingembre frais. Faites suer l'ensemble 2 minutes au beurre salé dans une casserole moyenne avec une gousse d'ail rôtie. Ajoutez alors 4 étoiles de badiane concassée, une tomate épépinée et coupée en petits cubes, le zeste d'un demi-citron, quelques brins de thym, une branche de persil. Laissez cuire encore une minute. Versez 10 cl de vin blanc sec. Au retour de l'ébullition, ajoutez 25 cl de fumet de poisson. Salez, poivrez et laissez frémir à feu doux 30 minutes. Passez alors au chinois, en pressant bien les légumes et les aromates pour obtenir environ 20 cl d'un fumet très concentré.
Ciselez finement 3 belles endives et mettez les dans une cocotte avec une bonne noix de beurre et une cuiller à café de graines d'anis.Couvrez et laissez fondre 20 minutes en surveillant.
Quinze minutes avant de servir, faites chauffer de l'huile d'olive dans une poêle noire. Salez les filets et posez-les côté peau dans l'huile chaude. Saisissez-les à feu vif pour que la peau dore et croustille, en appuyant sur le dessus au début pour que la peau soit entièrement au contact de la poêle. Soulevez ensuite avec une palette pour vous assurer qu'elle ne reste pas collée. Après 5 minutes, retournez les filez et cuisez-les côté chair 5 à 7 minutes supplémentaires selon l'épaisseur, en baissant à feu moyen. Débarrassez sur une plaque dans un four à 100°.
Déglacez la poêle de cuisson avec le fumet. Laissez réduire de moitié à feu vif et ajoutez 10 cl de lait de coco en deux fois, en tournant la poêle pour bien le délayer. Laissez réduire pour obtenir une consistance crémeuse. Ajoutez au dernier moment 15 g de beurre en morceau pour arrondir la sauce. Donnez encore quelques tours de poêle.
Posez sur chaque assiette bien chaude un lit d'endives, un filet de bar et nappez tout autour avec la sauce. Parsemez de ciboulette ciselée et de fleur de sel. On peut ajouter une fine tranche de lard fumé revenue à la poêle et bien égouttée.
La peau croustillante est appréciée des amateurs de bar, mais ne vous formalisez pas si vos convives l'enlève avant de déguster.
Accompagnez par exemple d'un meursault de 6 à 10 ans.

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