dimanche 9 décembre 2012

Coq au riesling, spätzle


Hivernal et roboratif, ce grand classique alsacien peut être un sommet de finesse, si l'on se donne la peine de choisir de bons produits, et d'en extraire patiemment toutes les saveurs.

Prenez un gros coq fermier (3 à 4 kilos) et découpez-le en 10 à 12 morceaux, en mettant de côté la carcasse, que vous couperez en petits morceaux, et les abattis (cou et ailerons, etc.)
Avec ces os, faites un fond blanc. Mettez-les dans un faitout et couvrez largement d'eau froide. Portez à ébullition, ajoutez un verre d'eau froide pour faire remonter les impuretés et écumez soigneusement. Ajoutez alors le vert de 2 poireaux, 2 carottes, un oignon piqué de 3 clous de girofle, 2 gousses d'ail écrasés, 15 grains de poivre et une cs de gros sel. Laissez frémir 2 heures. Écumez de nouveau et filtrez. Vous obtiendrez 1 litre environ de fond blanc, à conserver quelques jours au frigo ou quelques mois au congélateur.
Salez et poivrez les morceaux de coq, et farinez-les finement. Dans une cocotte en fonte bien chaude, faites fondre une noix de beurre dans une cs d'huile. Faites-y revenir les morceaux de coq 5 bonnes minutes, pour les colorez sur toutes les faces. Retirez de la cocotte.
Baissez le feu, remettez du beurre et faites suer et colorer trois échalotes et un oignon ciselés avec 50 g de lard fumé (d'Alsace évidemment) coupé en lardons. Remettez les morceaux de coq et couvrez d'une bouteille de riesling. Laissez revenir à ébullition  puis ajoutez 25 cl du fond blanc, deux gousses d'ail écrasés et quelques brins de persil haché finement.
Couvrez et laissez frémir doucement pendant 2 heures.
Pendant ce temps préparez les spätzle. Dans un robot pâtissier ou avec un fouet, mélangez 300 g de farine avec 3 œufs, du sel, du poivre et de la noix de muscade. Ajoutez un verre d'eau chaude et continuez de fouetter pour obtenir une pâte visqueuse mais encore assez liquide. Faites bouillir de l'eau dans une grande casserole. Mettez environ 100 g de pâte au bord d'une planchette, tenez celle-ci au-dessus de la casserole et avec la lame d'un couteau, découpez et faites glisser rapidement des lichettes de pâte dans l'eau bouillante. Retirez les spätzle avec une écumoire dès qu'ils remontent à la surface, et passez-les dans l'eau froide avant de les égoutter. Recommencez jusqu'à épuisement de la pâte.
Retirez les morceaux de coq dans un plat et couvrez d'un papier alu. Montez le feu pour faire réduire la sauce. Pendant ce temps, faites sauter vivement 300 g de champignons de Paris coupés en quatre dans une poêle avec une noix de beurre. Les transvasez dans la cocotte où réduit la sauce. Lorsque celle-ci devient nappante, ajoutez 200 g de crème fraîche et fouettez pour l'intégrer rapidement. Laissez revenir à ébullition, baissez le feu et remettez les morceaux de coq. Laissez mijoter pendant encore 30 à 45 minutes, pour que la viande soit attendrie par la sauce crémeuse.
Faites dorer les spätzle à la poêle avec une belle noix de beurre. Vérifier l'assaisonnement et servez le coq nappé de sauce dans un plat de service, les spätzle à part.
Dégustez bien sûr avec un bon riesling, de préférence évolué pour qu'il exprime des arômes de fruits mûrs et confits. Un vin blanc trop sec et trop jeune ne tiendra pas la route sur un plat en sauce aussi goûteux.

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